Valle de Cocora

We did a day hike from Solento through the Valle de Cocora. That translates to the Valley of Wax Palms. We put it off a day due to some rainy weather, and were glad we did. We took a 30-minute “willy” (aka a Jeep) ride from town to the trailhead and started the hike about 8:30a. The weather was lovely.

The hike is a loop. We started heading up valley and by following this creek which we crossed about 10 times, all on swinging bridges. Note the knee-high boots. We each rented a pair for the day at a cost of 5000 pesos, or about $1.60. I used the largest size they had – 43cm – though my US shoe size of 13 translates to 47.5cm. It was a very tight squeeze! Leena, on the other hand, used the smallest size and had boots that were a bit too big. I guess we’re both outliers.

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Here’s a look at the wax palms. They grow extremely tall, and this is one of the highest elevations in the world where they’re found. The hike tops out at 2860m / 9383ft.

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The first third of the hike went through open fields and farmland populated by cows and horses.

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We could see lots of wax palms on the ridge as we looked to our left. The last third of the hike comes down that very ridge.

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The trail continued to follow the creek and we were soon surrounded by lush forest as we continued to criss-cross the creek on swinging bridges. There were also plenty of muddy sections, so the boots – as recommended – were a very good idea.

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We took a left turn and started a steep climb to the top. We got a peek at a peak across the valley along the way.

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I sat down for a rest at the side of the trail and heard a low buzzing sound. I looked over and saw a hummingbird land on some naked branches just a few steps down the trail. I got a picture just as it took off. In a blur, of course.

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The trail came out of the forest near the top. Some horses were grazing in the field.

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When we reached the top, the tallest peak across the valley had a lovely cloud swirling about it.

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Some more hummingbirds visited as we took a break and enjoyed the views at the top. There’s a hummingbird sanctuary that you can visit by taking a side trail off the loop though we skipped it.

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A look down the valley, a view we’d enjoy for the rest of the day as we hiked back down to complete the loop.

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Wardrobe change! I brought my flip flops in the backpack and changed into them at the top, giving my cramped feet some much-needed relief. The rest of the trail was a simple dirt road used by both hikers and mountain bikers, so the boots were no longer needed.

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Some serious height on some of the wax palms.

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The completion of the loop is just beyond the cluster of buildings in the center right of the frame.

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Towards the end, there was a section where we could leave the road/trail and wander through a field of wax palms.

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Oh, hello lovely white horse.

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We finished the hike around 1p and took a willy back to Solento. As we had a late lunch, a storm moved in. It was a doozy! Thunder and lightning right on top of us, a heavy downpour, and even hail for a few minutes. Even the locals at the restaurant were astounded by its strength. We met some fellow travelers the next day that came off the trail about an hour after us and were caught in the downpour on the willy ride home. A tree came down across the road and they had to wait for it to be cleared.

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We took a willy ride that afternoon to the nearby town of Filandia. The storm cleared out and made way for a stunning sunset.

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